The vivid colors and designs of bugaku costumes
Seigaiha
Another highlight of gagaku is the beauty of its costumes. Although those worn by the dancers are most conspicuous, dancers and instrumentalists also wear distinctive costumes.
There are many different types of dance costumes. Some dances also use masks and implements of intricate design. Bugaku dances are divided into two classes, Dances of the Left and Dances of the Right. Costumes for Dances of the Left, which use tōgaku (‘Tang music’) for their accompaniment, are primarily red, whereas those for Dances of the Right, which use komagaku (‘Korean music’) for their accompaniment, are primarily green, blue, or occasionally yellow.
The majority of bugaku dances use kasane-shōzoku (‘layered costumes’). Also known as tsune-shōzoku (‘regular costumes’), these are worn by members of the accompanying ensemble (kangata) as well. Costumes of the ban’e-shōzoku (‘barbarian-illustration costumes’) type are decorated with animals, birds, flowers and plants in circular designs. Costumes reserved for use in single dances are called betsu-shōzoku or betsuyō-shōzoku (‘individual costumes’). One type of betsu-shōzoku is distinguished by the use of an outer garment known as the ryōtō, a tunic gathered at the waist with a belt. Costumes of this type are sometimes grouped together under the rubric ryōtō-shōzoku (‘tunic costumes’).
In contrast, costumes worn by dancers in the indigenous song and dance genres are more simple and elegant.
Costumes reflecting temporal and regional differences
While costumes worn during the Nara period (8th century) reflected the strong influence of the Chinese Tang dynasty, the ‘Japanization’ of the Heian period (9th to 12th centuries) produced softer and yet more luxuriant forms. The warrior culture of succeeding ages brought favor to stiffer, more angular costumes.
As well as these differences with age, some bugaku costumes give us hints in their design of their origin in different parts of Asia. Other costumes are based on uniforms or formal dress of civil and military officers of the Heian period.
Masks used for bugaku dances are varied, including some modeled on human faces, as well as on animals, both real and imaginary. Some have moving parts, such as rolling eyes or dangling chins. In principle, each dance has a different mask. Some dances use masks with an abstract design based on human facial features, drawn on silk glued to thick paper.
