The broad-sleeved choken is worn by
over half of the roles portraying celestial beings
and angels that perform a special dance. The usual
costume for the shite in the second half
of The Well-Curb is: Waka-onna
mask, a gold-leaf-appliqué (surihaku) under robe, a gold-embroidered
(nuihaku) robe (worn around the waist),
a special black court cap; and a choken
as an outer robe; it is possible, however, to
substitute a mai-ginu ("dance robe")
for the choken.
The choken is also used for male characters
such as court nobles, high-ranking samurai, or
the spirits of elegant and refined warriors, but
it such a case, it is not just worn over everything
else?it is held in place by a brocade waist band.
The small-sleeved atsuita is mainly used as
an under robe in male costumes, but is occasionally
also worn as an outer robe. The patterns are usually
geometric, or employ family crests, and one characteristic
is that, unlike with karaori, the designs are
not embroidered but simply created in flat weave.