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Choken: White ground, with
mist and Gagaku motifs
Atsuita: Indigo-and-red check ground with flowers-in-hexagon motif and paulownia crests

The broad-sleeved choken is worn by over half of the roles portraying celestial beings and angels that perform a special dance. The usual costume for the shite in the second half of The Well-Curb is: Waka-onna mask, a gold-leaf-appliqué (surihaku) under robe, a gold-embroidered (nuihaku) robe (worn around the waist), a special black court cap; and a choken as an outer robe; it is possible, however, to substitute a mai-ginu ("dance robe") for the choken.

The choken is also used for male characters such as court nobles, high-ranking samurai, or the spirits of elegant and refined warriors, but it such a case, it is not just worn over everything else?it is held in place by a brocade waist band.

The small-sleeved atsuita is mainly used as an under robe in male costumes, but is occasionally also worn as an outer robe. The patterns are usually geometric, or employ family crests, and one characteristic is that, unlike with karaori, the designs are not embroidered but simply created in flat weave.

Outer Robes (Karaori)
Outer Robes(Choken)/Main Robes (Atsuita)
Main Robes (Nuihaku・Surihaku)
Trousers (Hakama)
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Copyright 2004, by the Japan Arts Council. All rights reserved.